Just one other point - if you shoot with positive film remember you'll need an incident light meter. Resolution is around the 18 - 20 mp equivalent mark, but colour fidelity more like 30 mp. With good lenses and technique you can get remarkably good results from films like Kodak Ektar and Ektachrome, Fuji RDP III. One other thing: don't dismiss 35mm film. Incidentally I use Silverfast Studio on iMac Catalina and have no issues. Ilford Pan F is very high resolution but tricky, FP4 and HP5 very versatile and user friendly films. The newer emulsions are more akin to digital - IMO. I see you are looking at B&W Delta - personally I'd use the older B&W emulsions as I think they have more B&W character. Of course you need a good optical scanner and this gets expensive. Shoot it with Kodak Portra 160, Ektar, Ilford Pan F Plus, Fuji RDP III and you'll wonder why anyone bothers with digital MF. Not the 67 II which can't be repaired now, but the original 6x7 Mirror Up or the 67. Take a look at the Pentax 67, a great MF camera that in this modern digital age doesn't suffer from the lack of a Polaroid back. I'm hoping my 'day job' will let me be off this weekend to go shoot, as that weather is supposed to be really nice.sunny and in mid to upper 60's.Īnyway, this is all REALLY fun new ground for me.and I really appreciate yours and everyone else's feedback on all this. I also scored a Yashicha Mat 124G that was in mint shape at a garage sale for like I think $75.I've loaded a role of Tri-X 400 in it and am wanting to shoot it. I must say too, that the square format is making it a fun new creative challenge too.its very different than the digital aspect ratio.but is fun to work with. Perhaps it is the difference in Medium Format DOF and looks, but I must same on some of my shots this early even, I'm just enamored with the images coming out, and it makes me want to shoot more and more!! I'm sure it is "new toy" bias, but I could swear, some of the images coming off the Hassy on 120 film, just almost seem "magical" to me, in terms of how things look, how they seem to "pop" off the image at you. OH well, but I'm learning and it IS getting easier and more natural. I'm working on that so much I sometimes forget to also check to make sure my shot is level.hahaha. A little buggy still it appears.ĪNYWAY.the Hassy.on man, I flat out LOVE it!! I"m still learning a lot on using a hand held light meter, trying to teach myself sunny 16 and variants.and the most difficult of all, with that view finder being backwards, when framing. I had to stop and start the app again and this time pre=scan shows the 3 new images. I did just run into a little glitch on SF.I had changed out the images on the scanner and tried pre-scan, but SF wasn't bringing in the new had 1 of the new ones but still showing 2 of the previous run. I do still have a LOT to learn about this whole process, but hey, I like to learn new things!! Goodness, THANK YOU for that reply and great information!! Crazy I know but even crazier I also shoot pinhole cameras too.It's all good for me. I started this way, own tons of Canon gear but nowadays shoot mainly Leica and MF ( Rolleis, Mamiya and Fuji ) analog. I've read a couple of your posts and it seems like your going to film for some of your work. For 99% of my work wet scans provided the best/most economical scans you can get at home. If a critical scan is needed I wet-scan, or if wanting the very best. With the options you have for at home scanning the very best is wet-mounting. This is a very expensive replacement for such a easily reproducible incident. In addition the anti-Newtonian glass is treated with acid to produce the surface and will scratch if you look at it sideways.
I would avoid BetterScaning carriers as the anti-Newtonian glass is rather a hassle and the returns are minimal over the standard OEM film carriers. I develop, scan for less critical projects or image culling, and enlarge for print all at home. I currently run the V800 with Silverfast AI and it is superb IMHO. If you're not interested in editing your flow heavily then VueScan is perfectly fine.
Of the two competing software I prefer Silverfast for more involved work flows. The work flawlessly on both platforms with good drivers. I have used VueScan, Silverfast AI, and Silverfast SE plus. Try a TWAIN scan program to find the best match.
If you're using a new or newish mac your probably running into driver issues.
the V600 was, I think was original to 2009 and very dated. The issue that your having with Silverfast is the outdated TWAIN driver.